Plan a European Holiday in 5 Easy Steps

........with steps within steps, of course!!

A Trip to The Taj Mahal

.......a truly timeless memorial to love!

Thursday, October 29, 2015

The Many Lives of Delhi



This post is a consequence of a Heritage walk through New Delhi organised by the Hungarian Information and Cultural Center

New Delhi, referred to by some as Lutyen's Delhi, is the Capital of modern India. It is one among many cities built by conquerors who made India their home. Of course, for any place to be 'New', there has to be an 'Old'. In this case, it is Old Delhi or 'Purani Dilli'. This name, however, is a misnomer. Old Delhi is just another Delhi supplanted by a newer city. In fact, present day Old Delhi was the 'new' Delhi built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jehan, and named Shahjehanabad. We started calling it Old Delhi when the British built a new capital over the ruins of an even older Delhi, remnants of which can still be seen in the Lodi Gardens. 

As you can see, Delhi is a complex mixture of many cities, old and new, each creating and destroying something at the same time.

Today, I intend starting a new series on these many delhis, a Delhi Diary.

So let us kickstart this series with a brief look at the various cities which have stood on the present site of Delhi.

Indraprastha. The legendary capital of the Pandavas in the Indian epic Mahabharata. According to legend, this was a forest called 'Kandavaprastha' which was burnt down to build the city of Indraprastha.

Lal Kot. Founded by Anang Pal, Tomar Rajput in AD 736. The remains of this citadel can be seen along the Mehrauli-Qutab and Badarpur-Qutab roads.

Qila Rai Pithora.  Created by Prithviraj Chauhan, who took over Lal Kot from the Tomars. Also known as the 'first city' of Delhi, it dates to the 10th century, and gets its recognition due to the availability of recorded historical facts. The ruins of the fort ramparts are still partly visible in the area around Qutab Minar and ruins scattered around Saket, Mehrauli, Kishangarh and Vasant Kunj.

Mehrauli.   Created by Qutubuddin Aibak,  the first dynasty (Slave Dynasty) of Muslim sultans to rule over northern India. Qutab Minar, the 72.5m tall Tower of Victory, completed in 1220 AD, Quwwat-al-Islam (Might of Islam) mosque and the ruins around it are all that remain of the 'second city'.

Siri.   Built by Allauddin Khilji, the successors of the Slave Dynasty. Siri, the 'third city', is represented by stretches of thick stone walls and the Hauz Khas complex.

Tughlakabad.   The 'fourth city' was created by Ghiyas-ud-din Tughlak in 1321. The Tughlakabad fort is part of the remains.

Firozabad.   Built by Firoze Tughlak. The 'fifth city' is also called Firoze Shah Kotla. This was a large enclosure of high walls , containing palaces , pillared halls , mosques, a pigeon tower and a water tank. Today, Kotla Firoze Shah is famous for its sports stadium.

Dinpanah.   Founded by Humayun in 1533. It is the 'sixth city'.

Shergarh.   Sher Shah who overthrew Humayun in 1540 razed Dinpanah to the ground and built his new capital, Sher Shahi or Shergarh. He started building the Purana Qila. It was completed by Humayun when he won back Delhi in 1555. 

Shahjehanabad.   Built in 1639 by Shahjehan, the Mughal emperor who gave us the Taj Mahal. He named the city, the seventh Delhi, Shahjehanabad. The area including Jama Masjid, Chandni Chowk and Red Fort is now known as Old Delhi.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, Delhi changed hands many times. Though a Mughal King was always on the throne, the city was taken over or sacked by the Marathas, the Sikhs, the Rohillas, Nadir Shah of Persia, Ahmed Shah Durrani of Afghanistan and finally the British. After the First War of Independence in 1857, the last Mughal Emperor was exiled and Delhi came under the direct rule of the British. It was made a district in the province of Punjab. However, the capital of British India continued to function from Calcutta.

New Delhi.    In the early 1900s, the British decided to build a new capital, one that reflected the greatness of the Empire. Delhi was not an obvious choice. However, it was chosen over Calcutta as it had been the capital for many Empires of ancient India, including the Mughals. It was also better located to administer the empire which now stretched from the Indus to the Bay of Bengal. New Delhi was meant to symbolise and showcase the eternal glory of the British Raj. However, little did they know that within 16 years of the city's inauguration in 1931, their Indian empire would end.

I hope to cover each of these cities as I visit various parts of Delhi. Ciao.

Thursday, October 15, 2015

A Book Review.....and a Synopsis of 'India Discovered' by John Keay

I recently finished reading 'India Discovered' by John Keay. It is a must read book for every Indian, who wants to maintain a balanced view on the Right-wing nationalist version of history, the  Sone ki Chidiya story, which seems to be getting more and more popular.

John Keay is a respected author who has written many well received books on India and China. But, what convinces me that he would provide a reliable and unbiased account is the endorsement by William Dalrymple, my favorite author on Indian history, saying "It is the first book I read on India and it is still my favourite". The book is an account of the discovery of 'the history of India' by the Western World, and ironically, our own awakening to our glorious past. If this book is to be believed, and I am highly inclined to, we learnt about our Sone ki Chidiya past from the British.

************************** DISCLAIMER ******************************
I am not enamored by firangs. They have got where they are on the strength of their cunning, savagery and destructive weapons, which allowed them to conquer and exploit the civilized world. And I hate the fact that they are today in a position to give judgement on problems they created in the first place (I can write a whole blog, and more, on their hypocrisy). However, I also believe that the best of them had great vision, a sharp intellect, perseverance and sincerity of effort, while on the other hand, no amount of reading about our past or the news of the present inspires any kind of confidence in our own vision or sincerity. There are exceptions, but they are far too few to affect our progress as a people.
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Introduction

Most of our famous cultural and historic sites were discovered by Westerners. The list of such sites include Elephanta caves, Ajanta, Ellora, Sanchi, Khajuraho, Konark, etc. Many others were saved from destruction by the repairs carried out by them. This is not to say that all, or even the majority, of these outsiders were sensitive to our great historic past. Most of them were least bothered about preserving our past, or even aware that such a past existed. They were responsible for destruction of a large number of sites, either due to disregard and ignorance, as by engineers building the railroads who blasted anything coming in the way, or due to deliberate malice such as part of the reprisals after the First War of Independence in 1857, when many a fort and mosque were razed to the ground to give way to military barracks. However, the destruction wrought by them was no more than what was already being done by us on our own. In this general situation of wanton destruction, we were fortunate to have a few academics among those who came to administer and rule over us, and it is to these men - who had to fight against both us Indians and their own superiors - that we owe our thanks, for what we know and see of our wonderful past. This is what Fergusson, who wrote a seminal book on Indian architecture, had to say about the destruction of temples by the Muslims - 'Europeans have been equally destructive, and the Hindus, by their neglect and indifference, probably more so than others'. This remark about our disregard for our own heritage, made in the eighteenth century, can be seen even today on every monument and property defaced by the general public.

It is also fascinating that we were not even vaguely aware of our own glorious history. Our ignorance about our history was such that we did not even seem to know that Buddha was born in India. Vishnu's avatar as Buddha was considered to be an unrelated god, who in any case had no active worshippers or temples, like many others in the Hindu Pantheon. We were not aware of the existence of any great king named Chandragupta Maurya or Ashoka. In fact, whatever interesting sites were found in India were initially ascribed to the Greeks as we were considered incapable of being  their architects. This book shows how this perception slowly and gradually changed as the world discovered India's rich and glorious history.

************************ DISCLAIMER No.2 *****************************
Before I continue, here's another disclaimer. This post is not actually a review of the book, but more of a synopsis. It gives an overview of what you can expect when reading the book, chapter by chapter. For the benefit of those who may not get the time to read this book, I have also included a few of those incidents or passages I found most fascinating.
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The Book Review cum Synopsis

'India Discovered - The Recovery of a Lost Civilisation' was first published in 1981. It is divided into chapters, each discussing a different theme or area of study. However, the narrative follows a broad chronological arc, roughly covering the period from 1783 to 1925.


Chapter 1 & 2.    The book begins with a short introduction by the author about India and it's colonial past. This is followed by the first two chapters which are an introduction to Oriental Studies. The author discusses it's development in conjunction with the life of Sir William Jones, considered by many as the 'Father of Oriental Studies'. It is also a glimpse into India, as it was, when he arrived at Calcutta in 1783.

The British, through Clive's treaty with the Mughal Emperor in 1765, had been granted the Diwan of the whole of Bengal, which in those days stretched from Benares to Burma. As the holdings of the East India Company increased, the administration of these territories gained importance over purely commercial motives and as a part of this effort, Sir William Jones had been appointed as the Supreme Court Judge at Calcutta. These chapters, through the life of Jones, shows us the progress of scholarship on India, from being considered inferior and not worthy of study to a new level of respectability. As Warren Hastings, the first Governor-General of India, said after reading the first ever English translation of the Gita - "Not very long since, the inhabitants of India were considered by many as creatures scarce elevated above the degree of savage life. Now their civilization was being revealed in this masterpiece from an age 'preceding even the first efforts of civilization in our own quarter of the globe.' he ended with the prophetic statement - "These will survive when the British dominion in India shall have long ceased to exist, and when the sources which it once yielded of wealth and power are lost to remembrance."

Jones made numerous important contributions to the study of India. They included such varied fields as history, religion, architecture, literature, linguistics, anthropology, botany and many more. Here are just two of his more important contributions. The first was the dating of Indian history. Sanskrit literature included long lists of kings and writing extolling the virtues of many kings, but no chronicles or historical accounts. Thus there were no dates from the pre-Mohammedan period. The only known date from the whole of ancient India was 326 BC, a date every westerner knew, the date when Alexander invaded Punjab. However, there was no mention of it in any Indian account. Alexander was just another foreigner who had tried to invade a small kingdom somewhere in the north. How Jones deduced and gave an event in ancient Indian history a date, accurate within a decade, and which then formed the basis for the entire chronology of Indian history is extremely interesting. Jones, who learnt Sanskrit, was the also first scholar to recognize the similarities between Sanskrit, Latin and Greek as not merely coincidence, and proposed the theory of the existence of an Indo-European branch of languages, and in the process gave birth to the field of comparative linguistics. This section ends with his death in India, in 1795, having made Indian studies a much more respectable field of scholarship.

Chapter 3 and 4 are about the discovery of Ashoka - yes, I said discovery. Nobody in India knew about the existence of any king named Ashoka. As in the earlier chapter, the author fleshes out this story by weaving it with the life of the next great figure in the understanding of Indian history, James Prinsep, who arrived in India in 1819 as a simple official in the Mint. He was the first to recognize that the stone pillars scattered all over India, from Gujarat to Bihar and Nepal to Madhya Pradesh were the same Royal edict and had been put up by the same King. This may seem obvious today, but in those days, the script, now called Ashoka script, was undeciphered. The etchings on stone had faded and were difficult to discern, and the stones themselves were not considered special. Many of them had been broken and used by locals for use in building or decoration, and some were even found being used as the base for washing clothes by washermen. When Prinsep finally deciphered the script, the name on it was Devanampiya Piyadasi, meaning the beloved of Gods and of gracious men. A name was finally connected to him when someone read a buddhist text in Ceylon which said that this epithet was used by a great Indian King, otherwise known as Ashoka. Thus was India's first Great King, ruling over a vast Empire, revealed.

Chapters 5 is on Buddha. As I said earlier, the origins of Buddha were not known. No one even suspected that he may have been from India. After all, there were no Buddhists in India, in spite of being surrounded by them. All buddhist structures in India, including the one in Bodh Gaya, were in charge of brahmins, being used as temples. The ancient texts of the buddhists in the neighbouring countries referred to Buddha's origins in India, but neither any Indians nor the British had access to them yet. The pundit in Bodh Gaya, in fact admitted to being puzzled by the fact that every now and then, strange visitors from far off lands would come to visit the temple and reverently tour the overgrown ruins with books in their hands. Most scholars in the Western world believed that Buddha was an Egyptian or Ethiopian. It was only with the discovery of various archaeological sites, which were obviously buddhist in origin, and the study of buddhist texts from Tibet and Sri Lanka that the Indian origin of Buddha was established. In this chapter, we are also introduced to the next great figure in this journey, Alexander Cunningham.

Chapter 6 and 7 follow Alexander Cunningham, who during his more than fifty years in India, traveled across the subcontinent - from Burma to Afghanistan, from Central India to Tibet. Not only is he considered the 'Father of Indian Archaeology', but for a quarter of a century, he was Indian archaeology. He arrived in India as a Lieutenant in the Royal Engineers, in 1833. He followed his archaeological pursuits even as he was posted in various parts of India, including Central India, Punjab during both the Anglo-Sikh wars, Nepal during the Anglo-Gurkha wars, etc. In 1861, at the age of forty seven, he retired as a Major-General. For the next twenty five years, he tramped across the length and breadth of India. Cunningham did not concentrate on conservation, but on discovering, studying and recording as many sites as he could. What is sad is that in many of the places, he would excavate a temple or Stupa, and when he would return a few months later, he would find nothing as the villagers would have carted everything away to use in their buildings and houses. As the author says "Every site recorded might be a site saved. He was too late in many of the sites, too late at Sultanganj where the ruins furnished brick ballast for many miles of line and too late at Tigowa where 36 temples were destroyed and carted away by the local railway contractor." These chapters also discuss the discovery and excavations at various famous sites such as Taxila, Sanchi, Barhut, etc.

Chapters 8 and 9 discusses the architecture of India including the story of the discovery of Khajuraho and Konark temples. The author also discusses the various views and reactions to the highly erotic sculptures decorating the hindu temples, especially Khajuraho and Konark. Even as many struggled to understand the reason for the presence of such images in places of worship, a few like Sir William Jones understood and put it across so elegantly- In Hinduism, 'it never seems to have entered the heads of the legislators or peoples that anything natural could be offensively obscene, a singularity that pervades all their writings and conversations, but is no proof of depravity in their morals'. This section also looks at how the early scholars categorised the various temples and other architectural structures on ethnological lines, such as the Dravidian style, the Chalukyan Style, the Mughal style, the Pathan style, Rajput style, etc.

Chapter 10 is mainly about Delhi and its surroundings. While discussing the ruins around Delhi, this eye witness account by one of the early European visitors to Delhi in 1790 is very illuminating - "As we advanced (into Delhi) the ruins became more thickly scattered around us, and at length covered the country on every side as far as the eye could see. Houses, palaces, tombs, in different stages of dilapidation, composed the striking scene. The desert we had passed was cheerful compared to the view of desolation now before us." The person giving this account was also the one who discovered Humayun's tomb, which lay uncared, forgotten and in ruins. We also read about the decay of Red Fort as the Mughal Empire declined and finally the aftermath of the First War of independence in 1857 which led to some of the worst acts of vandalism by the British. In fact, Jama Masjid survived being razed to the ground by a mere whisker. Many of the mosques were taken over by the British for use as barracks or armories, and were handed back for prayer only after many years.

Chapter 11 is on the discovery of Ajanta and how it gave us a new appreciation of Indian art, which till then was considered undeveloped and crude, and not worthy of study. The caves were lost in the jungles and were used by bears, tigers and other animals as shelters. "Nothing more forcibly conveys the plight of India's heritage than the image of primitive tribesmen and wild beasts sheltering amidst the painted splendours of Ajanta". Ajanta is another example of the extreme dedication shown by some Europeans in the conservation of Indian heritage. On being commissioned by the British to record all the paintings, Major Robert Gill arrived at Ajanta in 1844 and commenced the painstaking work. He worked tirelessly for twenty one years, on site, and completed the work in 1865. Sadly though, his work was futile. His oil paintings of the Ajanta murals went on display at the Crystal Palace, London. In December 1866 all were destroyed by fire; the canvases had not yet been photographed. However, with staggering resilience, Gill returned to Ajanta to begin his life's work again, but died, on site, a year later. It is stories like these which make you wonder if the people in those times were made of some different stuff. BTW this second set of paintings too met the same fate, but fortunately these had been photographed before their fiery destruction.

Chapter 12 is on the discovery of the Indus Valley civilization and Chapter 13 on the Great Trigonometric Survey. Both these topics are vast in scope and this book only introduces us to them. The Indus Valley civilisation, of course, extended our history even further back and catapulted us into the category of "Cradles of Civilisation". The Great Trigonometric Survey, on the other hand, was not directly connected with the discovery of Indian history. But as the author shows, it had a great impact as many of the people who undertook this massive undertaking for mapping the entire subcontinent were people with varied interests, who commented and wrote about what they encountered during their travels across the country. Another equally important outcome of the survey was the idea of India. As the author says - "But what the trigonometric survey did do was embrace the whole of India. In its adoption lay the seed of an idea that would soon translate itself into the reality of an all-Indian empire; and in its completion would lie the important acknowledgment of India's physical integrity". 

Chapter 14 is on the discovery of the heritage of various ethnic groups and tribes. A major portion of it is dedicated to the Rajputs and how their self-esteem was restored by a British soldier named Colonel James Tod. I dont know how true this is, as it seems unbelievable that the Rajputs have not always thought of themselves as proud warriors. But I am guessing that the author has done his research. What he brings out is that in the seventeenth century, the Rajput principalities had been rejected by the British and were under Maratha rule. (for those who have read my earlier posts - yes, the Marathas again). They were a humiliated lot and were at the mercy of not only the Marathas, but also various adventurers. In 1806, as the British agent at the court of Scindia of Gwalior, Major Tod witnessed the suicide of the Princess of Mewar, who calmly drank a cup of poison in front of her father, the Maharana, as there were two rival kings encamped outside the city vying for her hand and a share of the spoils. He was so moved by this that he resolved to espouse the Rajput cause. He became the leading authority on the region and in 1817, when Rajputs were finally accorded British protection, he was nominated as the Political Agent. He is credited with rescuing and recording the oral traditions of the Rajputs, reconstructing their history from ancient texts and folklore, reconstructing the framework of their society which had been ravaged by foreign invaders, saving many princely families, including the Maharana of Udaipur, from destitution, reviving trade, restoring the peace and prosperity of the region (300 deserted towns were repeopled) and restoring their pride as a race. That is a stupendous list of achievements for a single person (and this is a condensed list). Though the author refers to various contemporary accounts and historical literature, how much of it is true and how much is self-serving propaganda (by the British and Tod himself), is something I am not sure about.

The Last Chapter is on the various scholarly endeavours in documenting the flora and fauna of this vast country. On reading this, I finally realised why every town established/used by the British, such as Calcutta, Ooty, Shimla, Shillong, etc have a Botanical Garden. The East India Company was basically a trading concern, which initially came to India to trade in spice. Thus, a lot of money was invested in studying the plants in the subcontinent to determine which could be used for extracting any commercially useful product. The Botanical Gardens were the testing labs as well as repositories for the collection and study of samples of plants received from all over the country.

Conclusion

In conclusion, India Discovered is an excellent book on how any of our heritage managed to survive. It made me ponder hard on why we continue to destroy what little has survived even today with our neglect and indifference. 

For a history book, it is surprisingly easy to read and is just 150 pages long. I highly recommend reading this book and give it a 5/5.


Madurai - The City of Temples (Part 1)

During the winter holidays, we went home to Chennai. Generally, we tend to remain at home, only visiting relatives and a little shopping. So this time, we decided to go on at least one out of town trip. So we decided on Madurai, Rameshwaram and Kanyakumari. Plan was to go to Madurai, followed by Rameshawaram and Kanyakumari. However, we had to return from Madurai as there was a cyclone warning and we were informed that all tourist activities would be curtailed. Incidentally, the cyclone warning lasted for exactly two days, that is the days of our visit. It was bright and sunny the day we reached back Chennai.

Madurai is the second largest city in Tamilnadu. In many ways, Madurai is to Chennai what Mumbai is to Delhi. It is considered the cultural centre of Tamilnadu. It is also an important industrial and educational hub.


The recorded history of Madurai goes back to the 3rd century BC and is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. The city was mentioned by Megasthenes, the greek ambassador to India and as well as the famous Kautilya. The city is closely associated with the Tamil language and the Tamil Sangams (assemblies of famous scholars and poets) which were held here.

The city has been ruled at various times by the Pandyas, Cholas, Madurai Sultanate, Vijayanagar Empire, Madurai Nayaks, Carnatic Kingdom and finally of course, the British in 1801.

We arrived at Madurai by train early in the morning and took a room in the TTDC hotel. it was good value for money, with neat and clean rooms.  We quickly freshened up and headed for our first stop, the Madurai Meenakshi Temple.

On recommendation of a Madurai resident, we went to the Murugan Idly Shop for breakfast. The shop which started in Madurai, now has branches in Chennai and SINGAPORE???? and opening soon in DUBAI??!! We ordered his signature dish, the idly....and it was worth it. White, light and fluffy. Not a great looking place, but neat and clean. You will have to eat on fresh banana leaves, thambi style. And he does not serve coffee in the morning, so you will have to have coffee elsewhere. But it is very conveniently located - just 200 mtrs from the temple entrance. So you can come here and have breakfast before walking to the temple.



Madurai Meenakshi Temple

The most important landmark of the city is the Madurai Meenakshi Temple. The entire city is planned, as a series of quadrangles, around this temple. Meenakshi, to whom this temple is dedicated, is another name of Parvati, Shiva's consort (Info for the occassional non-indian reader). Shiva, in this temple, is known by the name Sundareshwarar. Unlike other Siva temples in South India, the principal deity is Meenakshi, and not Sundareshwarar.


The Story of Meenakshi


(Source : Wikipedia)


Meenakshi, which means fish-eyed, by one retelling, was born to Kanchanamalai, the wife of the second Pandyan king. The girl was born (or appeared out of the holy fire of a yagna, depending on the source) had three breasts. A voice from heaven announced that the third breast would dissappear when she meets her future husband. She was named Tadaatagai and was trained as the heir to the throne. On attaining age, she waged war in three worlds and conquered Brahma abode (Sathyaloka), Vishnu's abode (Vaikuntha) and Devas abode (Amaravati). She then attacked Shiva's abode (Kailasha), where she easily defeated Shiva's army (Bhootaganas) headed by Nandi. She then headed to attack Shiva. But the moment she looked at him, she couldnt fight and bowed her head down in shyness. Her third breast also vanished. She immediately realised that Shiva was her destined husband and she was an incarnation of Parvati. Both returned to Madurai and the king arranged the coronation of his daughter followed by her marriage with Shiva.

The marriage was the biggest event on earth with all gathering in Madurai. Vishnu, the brother of Meenakshi, was to preside over the marriage. However, he was tricked by Indra and was delayed. (More on this soon) After marriage, they ruled over Madurai before assuming their divine forms as Meenakshi and Sundareshwarar.


 (Source : Wikipedia)

(Source : Wikipedia)

As an enactment of this tradition, every evening, before the temple closes, the image of Sundareshwarar is carried by a procession led by priests and musicians to Meenakshi's bedroom to consummate the union. He is taken back at dawn.

In many ways, the beauty of Hindu mythology is the sheer diversity of it. Each story can be found, with small and large variations, in different sources. Each city, locality, community would have a variation of the story, passed down over generations by word of mouth, which speaks to them. Every temple and shrine would have a story which in some way would be connected to the main thread. For example, the delay in Vishnu's arrival for the marriage is a story by itself and gives divine authority, so to say, for the existence of two more large temples in Madurai.


Temple Architecture

The temple is believed to have been originally built by Indra for Shiva. Tamil literature as well as saints have mentioned this temple over the last two millenia. The temple is believed to have been sacked by the muslim invader, Malik Kafur in 1310 and all the ancient elements were destroyed. The temple was then rebuilt in parts between the 13th and 18th centuries. The major building work was undertaken by the Nayak Kings, with substantial expansion by Thirumalai Nayak between 1623 and 1655.

The Meenakshi temple in many ways represents the apex of south indian style of temple architecture.

(Source : Wikipedia)

As can be seen above, the entire complex, which is spread over 45 acres has various Gopurams, shrines, mandapams and a tank.

Gopurams are the huge towers, covered with colorful images, that act as gateways. The complex has a total of 12, of various heights and age. There are four on the cardinal points acting as entrances to the complex. The tallest, the Southern tower, rises to over 170 feet and was built in 1559.




These gopurams are covered with colorful images, drawn from epics like mahabharata and ramayana, puranas, myths, legends, folklore, etc. These images are not carved out of stone and is not an integral part of the structure. It is made of lime and mortar, and is repaired and repainted every 20 years or so.








The temple has three shrines, for Meenakshi, Sundareshwarar and Shiva in the form of Natarajar. Each of the shrines have their own gopurams guarding them and providing entry. The Meenakshi idol is made of emerald-hued black stone. The Sundareshwarar shrine lies at the centre of the complex indicating that the ritual importance of Meenakshi developed later.




(Source : Wikipedia)



























Mandapams are covered halls, supported by pillars. There are various halls, including the thousand pillared hall (with 985 pillars), celestial wedding hall, Hall of eight goddess, dark hall, musical pillar hall, etc. One tends to lose track as each is filled with stories woven into the stone architecture.


























Another interesting side story. The Jains were a major community in Madurai by the 7th century. As per legend, the local Pandyan king converted to Jainism to the dismay of his wife and ministers. So they called the Shaivaite saint, Sambandar, to try an reconvert the king to Shaivism. The Jains tried to kill the saint by burning down his house unsuccesfully. The Jains and the Shaivaite saint held various challenges such a the scriptures being thrown into the fire to see which survives, thrown in water to see which floats, etc. And finally under his influence, the king converted back to Shaivism. Then starts the interesting bit. The king told the Jains to convert too. When they refused, he had 8000 of them impaled, in sitting posture, on wooden stakes. This event is mentioned, celebrated and commemorated in narratives by various writers and poets. It is also depicted in frescoes around the Temple pond and in the museum hall. A few of them are shown below. As you can see, the victims, all bald and bearded are impaled and are being tortured by men while birds are pecking at them.

Now for the strange part - There is no mention of this incident in Jain chronicles. The first mention in Shaivite literature is nearly 500 years after the events supposedly occurred. The frescoes were painted in the seventeenth century, nearly a 1000 years later. It is believed by historians that no such event occurred and the legend was created by Shaivites to prove their superiority. That is like announcing to the world that you have committed murder, without having done anything. Concocting up an imaginary story of having tortured and killed 8000 men, and celebrating and feeling proud of it. What does it tell us about humanity?  








And finally the final piece is the holy tank, a must in every hindu temple. The tank is called the Golden Lotus pond as it was in this pond that the golden lotus required by Indra for his pooja bloomed. According to legend, it was a mandatory requirement for any work of tamil literature to be brought to the pond and put in it. If it sank, it was no good. If it floats, it is good literature. I wonder if the poets spent more time selecting the type of material on which to write, rather than on the work itself. Lord Shiva, it seems, granted a boon to a stork, that there would be no fish or any other form of marine life, in this sacred pond. And so it is till today. (Personally I fail to understand why the stork did not want any fish in the pond......what will he eat? Anyways, I am sure it is an interesting story with a temple somewhere dedicated to it)










That just about sums up the temple.

Is it worth a visit. Without a doubt. It is crowded, but manageable. It is slightly dirty, but very clean considering the crowd passing through it. A guide is a must. Without him explaining things, it is impossible to truly see and appreciate the entire complex (that is from a purely tourist point of view).

That ends Part 1 of this travelogue. In the next part, I will try and describe the other places of interest in Madurai including the Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace........and other temples.

Continue reading in Part 2............






Wednesday, October 14, 2015

Golden Tickets, Magic Passes and Hidden Entrances



City Passes and Entry Tickets

Entry tickets to various places of interest, can add up to a substantial amount. Most major tourist cities have a pass giving you free or discounted access to many of the sights. However, they are generally expensive. So you need to decide on the sights and museums you want visit, check their individual ticket prices and compare it to the price of the pass. Passes are generally cost effective when you are visiting more sights in less time. A pass may or may not be worth its price depending on your sightseeing plan. However, many passes provide other advantages such as free use of local transport, a separate and much shorter line to get in, discounts, etc.

A few examples -

Roma Pass - The highlights of the pass are :-
  • Free entry to the first two museums you visit. Concessionary entry thereafter.
  • Free use of city's public transport network.
  • Valid for three days.
  • Cost 36 Euros.
Is it worth buying? You need to decide what places you will visit among the discounts offered. In our case, here is the calculation.

  • Colosseum - 12 Euros.
  • Castel D'Angelo - 10 Euros
  • Assuming a bare minimum of three journeys every day, you will make 9 trips on the public transport network over three days - 13.5 Euros
  • Total - 35.5 Euros
All other discounts and travel were just added savings. In addition, Roma pass holders have a separate line in most sights, saving you a lot of time. Thus the Roma Pass, for us, was a great deal. 

Firenze Card - This card, on the other hand, costs 72 Euros for three days. It provides one free entry in all participating museums, free transport and free Wifi. However, it is worth it only if you intend visiting a lot of museums. It wasn't worth it for us.

Cinque Terre Card - Usage of Trekking Trails + Trains for 1 day was 12 Euros. It was worth it for us.

Venezia Unica - You can create your own customised card from the various options. Whether it is value for money depend upon your plans. But remember that the tickets for the water taxi (Vaporetto) are expensive - 7.50 Euros per trip. Since we were spending only one day in Venice, we bought a pass which allowed us unlimited Vaporetto use over 24 hrs for just 20 Euros.

Vienna Card or Vienna Pass - In Vienna, you have a choice between the Card and the Pass. The Card costs just 18.90 Euros giving you free use of public transport for 2 days, but only discounts in the museums and sights. The Vienna Pass on the other hand costs a hefty 69 Euros, again allowing free use of public transport for 2 days, but free entrance to most major museums and sights. Roughly speaking, the Pass is a better option if you intend to visit as many sights as you can, in 2 or 3 days. A leisurely tour of the city may be better served by the Vienna Card. However, you need to do your own calculations, based on the places you plan to visit, to get the best deal. For us, the Pass was worth the cost.

Swiss Pass - In Switzerland, your travel options include buses, trams, trains, boats, funiculars, cable cars, gondolas, cogwheel trains, etc. And they can be prohibitively expensive. So, in order to confuse you further, they also have a slew of passes to select from. You have the Eurail Pass which gives you discounts on some transport options. You have the Swiss Travel Pass which allows you free use of most forms of transport across Switzerland and free entry to various museums and sights. You have the regional passes, the most popular among these being the Bernese Oberland Pass, which permits free use of all forms of transport within a region, except some private operators. And then you have the Swiss Half-Card which only gives you discounts, but is valid for a much longer period. So, all in all, it is a confusing landscape. In my opinion, for a short trip, the Swiss Travel pass is the best value for money among all the options. Damn expensive though.

Paris Pass - The Paris Pass is actually a Paris Visite Card and Museum Pass combined, with some extras thrown in. So, you need to decide whether you will use enough extras to make the expense worth it. In our case, we didn't think so and went ahead with the transport pass and Museum pass separately. The Paris Visite Card permitted us free use of all forms of public transport within Zones 1-3. This included all places we wanted to go except Versailles, Disneyland and the Airport which are in Zone 5. The pass for Zone 1-5 is much more expensive, and it is more economical to buy the single journey tickets for these places, rather than a pass. The Paris Museum Pass is excellent value for money, permitting you free access to most museums in Paris, including Versailles. You only have to decide the duration of the pass to buy depending on your plans.


Online Entry Tickets

And finally, you have the option of buying tickets of many attractions online. For a nominal extra charge, you can save hours of time as you don't have to stand in line for the tickets. We found this especially useful in Florence and Venice, where we did not buy passes. Here are a few places we bought tickets online.

Vatican - The official website of the Vatican for buying everything from museum tickets to tours to meeting the Pope. We took an official tour of the Vatican Museums, St Peters and Sistine Chapel. It is extremely cheap compared to private tour operators and is very well conducted. However, bookings start 60 days in advance and the best times get booked early.




Florence - We bought our tickets for the Uffizi and Accademia here. It is the official website for all Museums in Florence. You pay 4 Euros extra as a service charge. But it is worth it, just to avoid the serpentine lines outside these museums.

Venice - The Visitmuve site is the official website of the Venetian Museums. You can buy tickets online, including combination tickets, such as one for all museums in St Marks Square. I also bought Skip-the-Line tickets for the St Marks Basilica from the Venetoinside website. It was like taking an appointment, and certainly saved me a lot of time.

A Warning - While buying tickets online, be sure to check the official website. There are many commercial websites, which sell the same tickets at a much higher price. Be careful.



Shortcuts and Hidden Entrances

It is very useful to do a search for the best time and place of entry for various popular sights. It can save you a lot of time and more importantly, give you the satisfaction of having outwitted the hordes of tourists :-). Again, the best way of finding these gems is by googling for phrases like "best time to enter....", "how to avoid lines outside......", etc. Here are a few tips we picked up during our trip.
  • Rome - The ticket for the Colosseum includes entry to the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill and is valid for a single entry to each place over two days. So instead of standing in a long line outside the Colosseum, buy your combination ticket at the entrance to the Palatine Hill, which is never crowded. You can thereafter see the Colossuem and Roman forum at your leisure, skipping the long ticket lines completely. Of course, this tip is not required if you have a Roma Pass, as you have a separate line in all these places. Other sources - Rick StevesItalyloguegoItaly
  • Versailles - Buy your tickets online if you are not taking a Paris Museum Pass. Try to arrive at the Palace by 9 AM when it opens. However, do not enter the Palace. take the bus and proceed to the Triannon Complex, which is a few kilometres away, and work your way back through the Triannon, Marie Antoinnettes Estate and the Gardens, to arrive at the Palace in the afternoon, as late as possible. Most visitors walk the other way round, starting with the palace and ending at the Triannon. This strategy should help you avoid the crowd. Other sources -  Conde Naste Traveler
  • Louvre - The Louvre, with the Mona Lisa, is one of the biggest draws of Paris. The lines outside the Glass Pyramid, which is the main entrance to the museum, are serpentine. So what should you do? Take any of the other lesser known entrances, at the Passage Richelieu or the Porte des Lions. These entrances also lead you to the ticket counters under the Glass Pyramid. The Porte Des Lions is especially useful if you have a Museum Pass as you can reach under the pyramid and enter the museum in minutes. A second tip - try to visit the Louvre on a wednesday or a friday, when it is open till 9:45 PM. You can reach the museum by 3, after lunch and a siesta, and still have a solid 6 hours to wander around the museum. By 5, the tourist bus crowd would have left, leaving you to wonder why your friends couldn't take a selfie with the Mona Lisa. Other sources - The Telegraph, cntraveler, Tom's Guide.
  • Eiffel Tower receives over 32,000 visitors every day during summer. So there is no way you can avoid a line. You can only make it shorter. Option 1, buy tickets online, from the official website. You are given a time slot when you have to be present to board the elevator. However, the slots are limited and sell out like hot cakes. And, of course, you also pay a premium. Option 2, is to head for south west pillar, which is for those who want to go up by stairs. The lines are much shorter, and move faster, here. Don't worry, you do not have to climb to the top; you can go up to the second level, taking 674 steps, and take the elevator to the top from there. Apart from the thrill of walking up the tower, you would have completed your tour of the first and second levels, while those waiting for the elevator would still be standing in line below. You save a little money, as an added bonus. The climb is quite enjoyable. We, in spite of climbing at a leisurely pace, with selfie pitstops, did it in about 15 min. Other sources - The Telegraph, a blog, another blog

Finally, Europe is filled with tourists. There will be a queue at every place of interest. So, if you want to avoid the crowds, you have to either go to unconventional places, or at unconventional times. However, if you visit when the weather and time is perfect, be prepared to bump into a lot of people who think likewise.

One advice I can offer is to leave early everyday. The lovely squares of European cities have a totally different look when empty. Be there at the entrance of the cathedrals and museums by 9 AM, and you will have a much shorter wait. Delay by an hour, and a serpentine queue will await you. Most tourist buses, with the hordes, arrive around 10 AM. If you enter before they arrive, it will be a much more memorable visit.

Here is what you see if you arrive early......



And an hour later..........



Conclusion

Entry tickets to various museums and sights will be one of your major expenses. Any miscalculation in these expenses can really cause you a lot of heartburn and put your budget in trouble. It is worth your while to spend some effort to consider various options, decide whether to buy certain passes or to go online and buy tickets, as this can save you a lot of money and more importantly, time. It can be a frustrating experience to plan a day full of museums visits and fun activities, and then spend half the day, waiting in queue, outside the first museum.

With this post, we come to the end of the series on planning of the trip. Hope to begin the next series on our actual travels and experiences soon.


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Other posts in this series......

Eurotrip 2015 - Our Grand Tour

Eurotrip 2015 Episode 1- Genesis
 
Plan a European Holiday in 5 Easy Steps

How to Fly to Europe on a Budget

Hassle-free Bookings to Stay Within Budget

Planes, Trains and Automobiles - How to Travel Across Europe on the Cheap

Low Cost Airlines in Europe : A Budget Travelers Guide

Places to Visit - A Guide to Creating your Own Local Itinerary

How to Move Around Town Like a Local

Visa - The Key to the Beckoning Gates