The Incredible Living Root Bridges of Meghalaya

This blog is a part of the Shillong series :
http://mnitin73.blogspot.com/2014/07/10-places-you-must-visit-in-stunning.html

Meghalaya, also called the Scotland of the East, is a state located in the North East part of India. The hilly terrain, along with heavy rainfall has led to the various villages being separated by narrow streams and rivulets. To overcome this, the local villagers came up with a brilliant idea of growing, and not building, bridges.

The Ficus Elastica (Rubber Fig), a close relative of the Indian Banyan, is a common tree found in this region. This tree has adapted to the rocky and sloping land in which it grows by using secondary roots to firmly anchor itself to the ground and extract maximum nutrients from it. Over a period of time, many of these secondary roots become as strong as the main trunk. This quality of these trees was observed by the locals and has been put to excellent use.

How to Grow a Bridge

To make a bridge, they would search for a tree growing near the bank of a river, where a crossing was required. They would then place hollowed out stems of the betel tree along the direction that the bridge needed to grow. They would then place the tendrils of the secondary roots in the stems to guide them in the direction they wanted. As the roots grow, they would be guided, woven and intertwined in such a manner as to make the base, side walls and the supports for the bridge. Over the years, in fact over generations, the bridge grows into a strong and elaborate structure. Rocks and mud is placed on the roots forming the base when they are strong enough. These rocks, in time, get firmly embedded in the roots forming a cobbled road. Some of these bridges can support over 50 people.

The exact construction of each bridge is of course unique. For example some have grown from a tree on one bank which has been extended to the other bank and has taken root there. Some are made from entwining the roots of two separate trees on either bank. Some others have a third support at the centre, anchored to a rock in the centre of the stream.

What is most extraordinary about these bridges is that the people who start building these bridges would have no hope of ever seeing it completed. This is a long term venture, started for the prosperity and comfort of future generations. They are truly a Bridge between Generations.

The Living Root Bridges form an essential part of an ancient system of rocky pathways connecting all villages in the Khasi hills of Meghalaya, called the Kings Way. This network plays an important role in sustaining the trade in Betel products. The region reputedly has over a hundred such bridges. But most of these bridges are located well in the interior and are not easily accessible.

Living Root Bridge at Riwai

The Living Root Bridge at Riwai is one of the most popular and frequently visited Living Root Bridges due to its proximity to a motorable road. This bridge is just a 10 minute walk from the road. Riwai is located at a distance of around 70 km from Shillong. They have a neat parking for vehicles from where a well marked, clean cemented path leads to the bridge.

Along the path, you will find villagers selling pineapples, for which this region is famous. Me and Joshi bought a some cut pineapples, with added gunpowder (Hot Chilly powder,silly :-)). The sweet and acidic taste of the pineapple, mixed with the heat of chillies, makes a great combination. While we were busy eating, the ladies and the kids found cats, puppies and piglets in abundance to coo over.

The first glimpse of the Living Root Bridge is an extraordinary sight. The marvel, at least in my case, was way beyond what I had expected or imagined. The moment you set eyes on it, you find yourself scrambling, trying to find a vantage point, with the best view of the entire bridge.

The stream over which it has been built is very shallow and has numerous exposed boulders which can be used to get a good view of the bridge.

This bridge is an elegant one and has been built with style. The base, the side spans and the supports have all been designed in a very aesthetic manner. The roots on the side spans have been woven together in an intricate pattern and there are well placed openings in it to provide a view of the stream. The base itself is solid and has the appearance of a normal trail. The bridge is strong and sturdy and there is not even a hint of a swing or shake in the structure.

I tried really hard to discern the original tree and how it has been modified. But I met with no success as the entire structure is so elaborate, intricate and complex. The overall structure brought to my mind the image of a cradle or cocoon suspended in mid air.

Riwai is on the same route as Mawlynnong. One can therefore conveniently plan a day trip to both Mawlynnong village and the Living Root Bridge.

Trek to The Umshiang Double Decker Living Root Bridge

The next living root bridge we saw was the Umshiang living root bridge near Village Nongriat. I was initially very keen on going to this bridge. But the more I read about how to get to it, the more doubtful I became. Some seasoned travelers had written that it took them four hours to reach the bridge and that they could not walk straight for a week after the trek. Others advised not to carry anything as every piece of weight would matter in the climb. And the local resort owners advised keeping aside a full day for the visit. What I was worried about was that my daughter, Ananya, who is 8 years old, would not be able to walk and subsequently, I would not be able to carry her. All kinds of emergency plans were thought out - stay in the village for the night, climb with frequent breaks, get a local guide who will also help carry her if required, etc. But none of these plans inspired confidence in me. It is in situations like these that you need decisive company. Manish decided that we must go and assured me that we will manage somehow. So, his reassurance and my decision that he would carry my daughter if required, convinced me to go ahead.

The Double Decker bridge is around 45 min drive from Cherrapunjee, now called Sohra. I would suggest that you plan a night stay at Cherrapunjee so that you can reach the road-head early. The nearest road-head is the village of Tyrna. You can reach it either by car or local buses. However, please remember that most of the local buses do not ply on Saturday and Sundays. We reached Tyrna at 0945 hrs and commenced our descent.

The total distance to the bridge is only 3 kms. 19140 step according to a vandal, but not confirmed. We certainly didn't have the patience or energy to check. The initial half of the trek is a series of cement steps descending steeply through a lush green tropical forest. Looks great, but it is hell on the knees.

(Don't ask :-/ the loneliness and humid tropical air probably got to us)

We descended through the greenery to reach a village at the halfway point. Here, the path splits into two, the one to the left going to the double decker bridge while the one to the right leading to another long root bridge. There are signposts, but they are easy to miss. The long root bridge is just a five minute walk from the village. But we gave it a miss as we were keen on reaching the main attraction in time.

Beyond the village, the path is more like a jungle trail - cobbled in places, rock steps in others, or just a mud track at times. The path now had both ascending and descending sections. This was good news for us as this meant that our return journey would not be a continuous climb. The path itself is wild and untended, but clear.

Along this route, we had to cross two rivers using Steel Wire Rope bridges. These bridges were simply made of steel wires strung across the river at high points on either bank. It looked scary, but was easy to cross. One just had to go slowly as the bridge tended to swing scarily. You also had to look down while walking so as to avoid stepping into the gaps between the wires, which could be a little uncomfortable for people not used to heights. But then, what's the the fun in crossing a normal bridge.

We finally reached Nongriat, a small hamlet, hidden from view in the dense jungle. It had taken us around 1 hr 45 min to reach the bridge. It was a very good time, but gave us no indication of how much time we would take to climb all the way back up again.

The Umshiang Double Decker Living Root Bridge is not highly stylistic or elaborate. It's beauty lies in it's plain, yet unique, look. However, in spite of it's simple and utilitarian appearance, the complexity and effort involved in guiding the trees to form two separate bridges, one on top of the other, is readily apparent.

The inaccessibility of this bridge is also it's greatest asset. Very few tourists venture here, letting you enjoy this place, without hordes of tourists standing all over it. It is a secluded piece of paradise, with your own private pool and waterfalls. The flow of the river, across which the bridge has been built, has been split into tanks at different levels, thus providing pools of calm waters separated by falls.

*************************************** Just Wondering*******************************

In many of India's remotest locations, one can find constructions which are obviously man-made. Their remote location and appearance makes one wonder if this village or area was once an important part of a long gone kingdom or did it lie on a prosperous trade route, whether these are extremely old structures which have worn down with the passage of time or recent government initiatives which have been ravaged by nature in an extraordinarily short period. Even if they are recent, how was all that building material brought here. And why is it no longer being maintained? One can only wonder.

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We had not brought our swimming trunks, not expecting to get any such opportunity. But the solitude and the inviting waters convinced us to get into the stream, wearing just our briefs.

We frolicked in the water for over an hour. Many of our shenanigans captured on film are embarrassing to watch now, but in the excitement of that moment, it felt as though we were part of a professional swimwear photoshoot.

At around 1230 hrs, we reluctantly got out of the pool and decided to head back as we were still not very confident about the climb back.

The trek back was uneventful. The walk till the halfway point, through the jungle trail and over the steel wire bridges, was reasonably easy.

But once we reached the steps, the torture started. Soon we found ourselves searching for excuses to stop every few steps. As far as the supposed weak link, Ananya was concerned, she was hopping and skipping her way along and was way ahead of us. I guess it has something to do with her muscle to weight ratio. Aryaman, of course, was leading the pack and was well in front of us adults - that darn ratio thing again.

(Reality)

(Say CHEESE)

Well, huffing and puffing, we finally reached the top at 1400 hrs, which meant we had completed the return trek in just 1.5 hrs. Not great timing considering the distance, but an achievement nonetheless when compared to the 4 hrs we were told it would take. Aryaman, age 12, reached the top in just 1 hr.

Is it worth the effort - without a doubt, yes. It is a great walk through a lush green forest, adventurous river crossings And finally, a magical living root bridge and a private pool party. The walk back is difficult. But then where is the fun or sense of achievement in a simple trek. You can easily complete the entire trek, including an spending an hour near the bridge, in less than 5 hours. If you have children, you can consider taking a local as a guide, not to show you the way, but to help you carry your kid if he or she finds it difficult.

In conclusion, the Living Root Bridges of Meghalaya are a part of our national heritage which needs to be preserved and showcased. We need to study the techniques used for making them and ensure that this knowledge does not die out. We have to make a concerted effort to protect these wonderful masterpieces.

I will now leave you with some more memories of our trek to the bridges.